Author: Site Editor Publish Time: 2025-11-19 Origin: Site
Cold peel DTF film delivers more durable, detailed, matte prints on textured fabrics but needs a full cool-down before peeling. Hot peel is faster and glossier on smooth fabrics, yet less durable and must be peeled immediately—choose based on whether speed or longevity matters more.
DTF printing is still a relatively new technique in the garment world, yet it has quickly become one of the most in-demand digital printing methods. With its sharp details, vivid colors, and ability to decorate almost any fabric color, T-shirt customization has gone to a completely different level.
At the center of this process is the DTF transfer film. Printing onto film first and then transferring onto the fabric is what allows DTF to ignore fabric color and handle everything from cotton to polyester blends and more. But there's a crucial choice many people underestimate:
Should you be using hot peel or cold peel DTF film?
Both options work. Both can produce great results. But they behave differently, and those differences will affect:
•How your prints feel in the hand
•How long they last after washing
•Which fabrics you can safely decorate
•And ultimately, how fast your team can run jobs
This guide pulls together the key ideas that keep showing up across industry explanations of hot peel and cold peel film, and turns them into a single practical article you can actually use to make decisions.
DTF film (often called DTF PET film or simply DTF transfer film) is the thin polyester sheet you print your design on before it ever touches a garment. It's not just regular plastic – it's a coated, engineered material.
A typical DTF film is made up of multiple layers, for example:
•A PET base that stays stable under high heat
•A release coating that decides how and when the film lets go of the print
•An ink-receptive layer that accepts water-based DTF inks and keeps them sharp
•A layer that interacts with the hot melt powder adhesive
•Sometimes anti-static or protective layers to keep dust down and feeding smooth
From a user's point of view, you mainly notice two sides:
•A matte side – this is the printable side that holds the ink and powder
•A glossy side – this is the carrier side that faces up in the press and gets peeled away
Hot peel and cold peel films share this basic structure. The real magic lies in the adhesive system and release coating. Those layers are tuned so that:
•Some films are designed to be peeled while still hot
•Others will only peel cleanly after they've cooled down
That peeling behavior is what people mean when they say "hot peel" and "cold peel".
Before we dive into chemistry and settings, here's an overview you can keep in mind when you're quoting jobs or picking film for a new garment.
| Aspect | Hot Peel DTF Film | Cold Peel DTF Film |
|---|---|---|
| When you peel | Peel right after pressing, while the transfer is still hot | Wait until the film cools to room temperature, then peel |
| Adhesion behavior | Adhesive bonds quickly under heat, so you can peel almost immediately | Adhesive needs a cooling phase to fully lock into the fibers |
| Typical fabric match | Light to mid-weight fabrics (cotton, polyester, blends) | Thicker, heavier or more textured garments (hoodies, denim, fleece, coated fabrics) |
| Look & feel | Flatter and smoother; feels more "integrated" on light fabrics | Slightly thicker, firmer, sometimes more plastic-like; suits heavy garments |
| Durability | Good when applied correctly, but more prone to cracking and edge wear over time | Generally more durable and wash-resistant; better for long-term use |
| Production speed | Very fast – no waiting to peel, ideal for bulk orders | Slower – cooling adds an extra step to the workflow |
| Operator tolerance | Requires accurate timing and confident peeling | More forgiving once you let it cool completely |
You can think of it this way: hot peel favors speed, while cold peel favors longevity and control.
Hot peel DTF film is designed for shops that care a lot about speed and throughput.
The printing steps are the same for both types:
•Print the design on the matte side of the film using DTF inks.
•Apply hot melt powder and shake off the excess.
•Cure the powder in an oven or under a heat press.
•Place the film onto the garment and press.
The difference shows up at the last step.
With hot peel film, as soon as the press opens, you can peel the film right away while it's still hot. There's no need to move garments to a cooling rack or wait for them to reach room temperature. In many setups, the sequence becomes:
Place garment → Press → Open → Peel → Load the next one
This is exactly why hot peel is so popular for bulk orders and production lines where every second matters.
Hot peel films use adhesives and release layers that react quickly to heat. Under the press:
•The adhesive softens and flows into the fabric surface.
•The release layer grabs the transfer during pressing but lets go cleanly the moment you peel.
•The bond happens fast enough that you don't have to wait for a full cool-down.
The trade-off is that this fast bond is usually a little thinner and can be more sensitive to rough fabrics and heavy use if you push it too far.
Exact settings depend on the brand of film and your press, but hot peel films often fall in these ranges:
•Temperature: around 140–160°C (284–320°F), some up to about 170°C (338°F)
•Time: roughly 5–15 seconds
•Pressure: medium to firm
•Peel: almost immediately after opening the press, sometimes with only 1–2 seconds delay
Some film makers recommend slightly higher temperatures and 10–15 seconds of dwell, especially for heavier garments, but the idea is the same: enough heat and pressure so that the print bonds quickly and can be peeled hot.
Hot peel DTF film is usually the best choice when:
•You're printing bulk T-shirt runs, event shirts, uniforms, or promo garments
•Turnaround time is tight and you need a fast, repeatable cycle
•Most of your garments are lightweight cotton, polyester, or blends
•Your designs are bold and graphic, without extreme micro-detail
If you're trying to keep a single press running at maximum capacity with a steady stream of shirts, hot peel gives you a clear advantage.
Cold peel DTF film is all about stability, detail, and long-term durability – even if that slows you down a bit.
The early stages stay the same: printing, powdering, curing, and pressing.
The difference comes after pressing. With cold peel film:
•You remove the garment from the press, but you do not peel the film right away.
•The transfer sits until it cools down – often 20–60 seconds, sometimes a bit longer for thick garments.
•Only when the print and film reach room temperature do you peel the PET carrier.
Some shops speed this up by:
•Laying garments on metal cooling plates
•Using fans to move air
•Moving them onto a cool, flat table immediately after pressing
Even with these tricks, there is always a "cooling window" before you peel, which is why this method is slower than hot peel.
The adhesive systems in cold peel films are formulated to fully lock in during cooling:
•Under heat, they become tacky and begin bonding to the fabric.
•As they cool, they solidify and form a tight, durable connection with the fibers.
•The release layer is tuned to let go only after this cooling phase.
This controlled, slower process is what makes cold peel transfers feel:
•More robust
•Less prone to cracking and peeling
•Well suited to heavier fabrics and textured surfaces
Cold peel films often use similar or slightly higher temperatures, but longer total cycle time:
•Temperature: about 150–170°C (302–338°F)
•Time: around 10–20 seconds of pressing
•Pressure: medium to firm
•Peel: after the transfer is fully cool to the touch (often 20–60 seconds)
Again, always follow the exact spec for the brand you buy, but the pattern is:
Press a little longer → Wait for full cool-down → Peel slowly at a low angle
Cold peel DTF films tend to be a better fit when:
•You decorate hoodies, sweatshirts, fleece, denim, canvas, coated fabrics, or flannelette
•The design has very fine lines, small letters, or delicate textures
•Your client expects the print to survive many washes and strong wear
•You're doing shorter runs or premium products where quality matters more than raw speed
For long-term merch, uniforms, or retail garments with a higher price point, cold peel is usually the safer long-term choice.
Now let's line up the differences in a way that helps you decide, not just memorize terms.
Most explanations point to a few recurring ideas:
•Both film types use a PET carrier, adhesives, and release coatings.
•The printable side is tuned for DTF inks and hot melt powder.
•The key difference lies in how the adhesives and release coats behave at temperature and as they cool.
In simple terms:
•Hot peel films use fast-setting adhesives and release layers that work best when peeled right after pressing.
•Cold peel films use stronger, slower-setting adhesives and more neutral release coats that only let go cleanly once the film cools.
Whether a brand describes this as "wax-based vs silicone-based", "water-based vs oily backing", or "fast vs strong bond", the end result is the same:
hot peel favors quick handling; cold peel favors ultimate bond strength.
Because of the chemistry, the recommended press settings are slightly different.
•Hot peel DTF film
Often likes slightly higher temperature and shorter press times
Needs enough heat to soften the adhesive so it grabs fast
Fails most often when temperature is too low or press time is too short
•Cold peel DTF film
Works at similar or slightly higher temperatures, with longer dwell
Needs that extra time so the adhesive can penetrate the fibers
Absolutely depends on a proper cooling period before peeling
In both cases, medium–firm pressure is not optional. Too little pressure is a very common reason for transfers that don't peel cleanly or wash poorly.
If you're struggling to dial in press time and temperature for different films and fabrics, follow a step-by-step DTF transfer temperature guide instead of guessing.
One of the most useful ways to choose film is to think about the garments you work with.
Hot peel is usually a better match for:
•Regular T-shirts (cotton, poly, blends)
•Lightweight sportswear and performance tees
•Smooth promotional items and simple tote bags
Cold peel tends to outperform on:
•Hoodies, sweatshirts, fleece and heavy cotton
•Denim, canvas, and workwear
•Coated fabrics, tarps, and textured textiles
The thicker or rougher the fabric, the more it benefits from a slow, deep bond rather than a quick surface attachment.
Another practical filter is the type of artwork you print.
•For large logos, bold shapes, team numbers, and basic text, a well-applied hot peel film usually looks great and feels smooth.
•For intricate artwork, hairline graphics, and tiny letters, cold peel films generally give you a cleaner edge and less risk of losing small details during peeling.
If your shop specializes in highly detailed designs or micro text (for example, fashion labels or fine graphic tees), it's worth leaning heavily on a good cold peel film.
Customers don't just see the design – they touch it. Here's how the two types usually compare:
•Hot peel finish
Feels flatter and more blended into light fabrics
Often perceived as softer on standard T-shirts
Great for people who dislike a heavy "transfer" feel
•Cold peel finish
Feels a bit thicker and firmer, sometimes more like a plastic print layer
Fits visually with hoodies, jackets, and workwear
Communicates a sense of "solid" and durable printing
You can fine-tune this with ink density and powder size, but the basic difference comes from the film choice.
From a workflow perspective, hot peel films usually win.
Because you can peel them immediately after pressing, there's no extra cooling rack or second peeling stage. That makes them ideal if:
•You have only one or two presses
•You often print large runs of the same design
•Your staff are trained to move in a consistent rhythm
Cold peel is absolutely workable for production, but you must plan for:
•A place to cool every garment
•The time and labor to come back and peel later
•A slightly longer cycle time per piece
For premium orders or lower volumes, that extra step is fine. For high-volume, low-margin runs, it can be the difference between profit and headache.
Most suppliers agree on this point:
When both are applied correctly on suitable fabrics, cold peel transfers usually outlast hot peel transfers in the wash.
Reasons include:
•The adhesive in cold peel formulas has more time to set and crystallize as it cools.
•The print is often slightly thicker and more cohesive.
•The bond is less brittle under stretching, bending, and repeated laundering.
Hot peel can absolutely achieve good wash performance if your process is dialed in. But if you're printing garments that must survive years of wear and washing, cold peel gives you a bit more margin.
In the early days, hot peel films tended to cost more because of their more demanding coatings. As DTF has grown, that gap has mostly closed.
Now, for most suppliers:
•Hot peel and cold peel films sit in a very similar price range.
•The bigger price differences come from:
Brand reputation
Coating quality (single- or double-sided)
Special effect films (reflective, glitter, holographic, luminous, etc.)
That means you're usually better off choosing based on performance, workflow, and fabric type, not on a minor cost difference per sheet.
Good film can behave badly if you store it poorly. To keep your DTF film in top shape:
•Store film in a room with:
Temperature around 18–24°C (64–75°F)
Relative humidity below 60%
•Excess humidity can:
Warp the film
Soften or contaminate the coating
Make powder and ink behave unpredictably
•Don't park film rolls or stacks in direct sunlight or under strong UV.
•UV can slowly break down coatings and change how they release or absorb ink.
•Leave rolls and sheets in their original cartons and plastic bags when possible.
•The packaging keeps dust, dirt, and scratches away.
•Avoid stacking heavy boxes directly on each other in a way that can bend or crease the film.
•Don't store films near solvents, cleaners, or oily containers – they can damage the adhesive.
•Keep them away from:
Scissors and knives
Rough metal edges
Any tool that could scratch the surface
Even small scratches and dents can show up clearly in a transferred print.
Choosing the right film is only one piece of the puzzle. Your equipment setup needs to match.
Capable of handling CMYK+White
Uses compatible, high-quality DTF inks
Water-based inks that match your film's coating
Powder cured at the correct time and temperature (often 30–60 seconds at around 160–177°C / 320–350°F)
•Heat press
Even heat and pressure across the platen
Reliable temperature readings
For most films: 160–170°C (320–338°F), 10–15 seconds, medium-firm pressure
•Optional curing oven
Provides consistent powder curing before pressing garments
Once these are stable, you can fine-tune settings depending on whether you are using hot peel or cold peel films.
If your DTF transfers are difficult to peel, or the design lifts with the film, check these areas:
•Press temperature too low or too high
Too low: adhesive never fully activates → weak bond
Too high: coating over-melts and sticks where it shouldn't
•Press time too short
The adhesive doesn't get enough time under heat to flow into the fabric.
•Pressure too light
Poor contact between film, powder, and garment leads to patchy adhesion.
•Wrong peel timing for the film type
Peeling a cold peel film while it's still warm will almost always damage the print.
Leaving a hot peel film sitting too long can also change the way it releases.
•Uneven cooling
With cold peel film, peel only when the entire print area feels cool, not just the edges.
Fixing these issues usually resolves most peeling problems without needing to change film brands.
If you're still unsure, walk through these questions:
1. What do you print most often?
•Mostly standard tees for events, promos, and clubs → lean toward hot peel.
•A lot of hoodies, heavy garments, or workwear → invest in cold peel.
2. What do your customers care about?
•Super fast turnaround and competitive pricing → hot peel is easier to scale.
•Long-term durability and premium feel → cold peel provides more peace of mind.
3. How detailed is your artwork?
•Big logos and simple graphics → hot peel is fine.
•Micro text and complex illustrations → cold peel gives better control.
4. What's your team's experience level?
•New to DTF with limited process control → start with cold peel for a more forgiving learning curve.
•Experienced operators and stable workflow → add hot peel for high-volume runs.
5. Can you test both?
•Get small quantities or sample packs of both film types.
•Run the same design on the same garments, then compare:
Peel behavior
Handfeel
How they look after 5–10 washes
Your own tests on your own equipment will tell you more than any spec sheet.
•Hot peel DTF film
Press, peel while hot, move on.
Built for speed, especially on light to mid-weight fabrics.
Smoother, flatter feel, ideal for everyday tees and bulk orders.
•Cold peel DTF film
Press, let it cool completely, then peel.
Takes longer but usually wins on durability and detail.
Slightly thicker feel that matches heavy garments and long-term wear.
There's no single "best" choice. The real power comes from understanding how each one behaves and matching it to the fabrics, designs, and business model you actually have.
Q1. Is hot peel or cold peel DTF film better?
Neither is better in every situation. Hot peel is better when you need speed and efficiency on standard fabrics. Cold peel is better when you want maximum durability and clean detail, especially on thick or textured garments.
Q2. Can I use DTF film on any material?
DTF films work on most fabrics that can tolerate the required heat and pressure: cotton, polyester, blends, and many technical textiles. You can also decorate some non-fabric items, but only if they can handle the press temperature and accept the adhesive. Always test unfamiliar materials.
Q3. Which side of the DTF film do I print on?
Print on the matte side. It's designed to absorb the ink and hold the powder. The glossy side is the carrier that faces outward on the press and gets peeled away after transferring.
Q4. How do I know if my film is hot peel or cold peel?
Start by checking the packaging or product information. If it isn't clearly marked, print a small sample, press it, then try peeling:
•If it releases cleanly while hot → likely hot peel (or hybrid).
•If it only releases cleanly after cooling → cold peel or warm peel.
Q5. Does the peel method change wash durability?
Yes. In most systems, cold peel prints hold up better over many wash cycles because the adhesive has more time to set and form a stronger bond. Hot peel prints can also be durable, but they are usually a little more sensitive to tough fabrics and long-term wear.
Q6. Can DTF film be reused after one transfer?
No. DTF films are designed for one-time use. The layers that hold ink and adhesive are used up during the first print and transfer. Reusing film will only waste ink and powder and won't give reliable results.
